A polished concrete floor starts with the slab already under your house or shop. We grind the surface down past the top layer of cream, then work it back up through finer and finer diamond tooling until it takes light. Nothing gets laid on top. No coating, no film to peel up at the edges a few years in. What you end up walking on is the same concrete that has been there the whole time, opened up and closed back down.
The sheen you want decides how far we take it. A low honed finish stops early and reads soft, closer to a matte stone. A high polish runs the full grit sequence and throws a real reflection. Between passes we put down a densifier that soaks in and hardens the surface from the inside, which is what keeps a polished floor from dusting or wearing thin in the lanes people actually walk every day.
Old slabs tell you what they have been through. The median house around here went up in 1971, so we see plenty of floors buried under carpet glue, tile mastic, or a coat of paint somebody rolled on in a hurry. Cracks get chased and filled. Low spots get read before the machine ever runs, because grinding does not level a floor. It only takes the high ground down, and a slab with a dip keeps that dip.
Getting one right is mostly patience and dust control. We run the grinders wet or dry depending on the slab and the space, with vacuums pulling the whole time so the silica stays out of the air and out of the rest of the building. Skipping a grit to save a day shows up later as swirl marks sitting under the shine, visible at a low angle. We do not skip them. A finished floor holds every shortcut permanently.
Floors are one part of what we do. Savannah Precision Concrete works as a concrete contractor across the flatwork trades, so the same crew that polishes an interior slab also forms and pours a driveway, sets a sidewalk with proper rebar and wire mesh, and finishes a patio in stamped concrete when somebody wants pattern and color instead of a broom finish. It is one trade with several faces, and reading a slab correctly carries across all of them.
Call for a free estimate. Most questions about a polished floor cannot be answered honestly from a photograph, because the answer lives in how the concrete was troweled, how it cured, and what has been stuck to it since. Standing on the slab is the only way to say anything useful about what it will do under a grinder. The room, the shop, the garage: whatever the space is, the concrete already in it decides most of what is possible.
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Settled slabs, spalled surfaces and cracks wider than a pencil are what we see most. We lift and level where the subgrade is the problem, saw out and replace panels past saving, and resurface sound concrete with a bonded overlay. A cracked concrete sidewalk usually needs new joints, not filler.
Most driveways go in at four inches over compacted base, with rebar on chairs or wire mesh pulled up into the pour, and control joints cut the same day. We thicken the edges where trucks turn in. Old driveways come out whole rather than getting capped with a thin topping.
Patios are where stamped concrete and colored concrete earn their keep. We stamp ashlar slate, wood plank and running bond patterns, or leave an exposed aggregate finish if you want grip underfoot. Steps, grill pads and walkways get poured alongside the patio so the color matches across all of it.
Walls fail at the base and behind the face, so that is where the work goes: a footing below grade, rebar tied into the stem, gravel backfill, and weep holes or a drain line. We build poured concrete walls and segmental block, depending on height and what the wall holds back.
Shed and garage slabs, equipment pads, dumpster pads and sidewalk runs are steady work for any concrete contractor. Pads go over compacted stone, with a vapor barrier under interior slabs, mesh or rebar through the middle, and a broom finish. Commercial concrete gets the same flatwork on a larger pour.
Every job starts with a look at the ground. We walk the site with you, measure the area, and note the things that actually decide the work: where water runs off, how a truck gets in, what the existing slab is doing. Questions get asked and answered on the spot. If you want a patio and the ground says something different is smarter, we say so then, not after the forms are set. Then we go write it up.
What we look for on that first pass is mostly failure. Old concrete tells you why it cracked if you read it. A slab heaved at one corner, a driveway pitched back toward the garage, sidewalks that settled where a trench was cut and never packed right. Much of the housing around here has a median build year of 1971, so we are often working next to concrete that has already had a long life. That history shapes the plan.
The estimate comes back in writing with the scope spelled out. Thickness, square footage, reinforcement, finish, where the control joints land, what we haul away, what we leave behind. You should be able to read it and know exactly what will be sitting there when we pull out. Vague scopes are how people end up arguing in a driveway in month three. Ask about anything on it. Changes are easy on paper and expensive in wet concrete.
Permits go through the City of Savannah where the work sits inside city limits, and we file them rather than handing you a form. Some flatwork needs review and some does not, and the answer depends on what is being replaced and where it falls on the lot. We would rather wait on paperwork than pour something that has to come back out. If an inspection is part of it, the schedule bends around the inspection.
Demolition is the loud day. Old concrete gets broken out, loaded and hauled off, and we protect what stays: irrigation heads, gas and water lines, the lawn where the truck has to park. Sawcutting keeps a clean edge where new work meets old. Sometimes we find the reason for the original failure buried under the slab, a soft spot or bad backfill from a trench somebody cut years ago, and that gets fixed before anything else moves.
Base work is the part nobody sees and everybody feels. We grade the subgrade to the slope the drainage needs, dig out anything soft, bring fill up in lifts and compact each one. Concrete does not correct a bad base. It follows the base, then it cracks along the same line where the base gave way. A concrete driveway that lasts is mostly a story about what happened underneath it before a single truck showed up.
Forms go in next, set to the grade lines and braced so they hold their shape under load. Reinforcement depends on the job: rebar on driveways or anything carrying vehicle weight, wire mesh where the loading is lighter, chairs to hold the steel in the middle of the slab instead of lying in the dirt. Steel sitting on the bottom of a pour does nothing at all. Thickness gets confirmed before the concrete is ordered.
Pour day starts early and does not slow down. The concrete arrives on a schedule, gets placed, screeded and floated, and it waits for nobody. Finishing is where a stamped or colored slab is won or lost, and the window for stamping is short. Exposed aggregate, broom finish, stamped pattern: each one has its own timing, and we crew the day around whichever you picked. Concrete installation is a trade with no undo button.
Curing takes patience after the noise stops. We cut control joints so the slab cracks where we tell it to instead of wherever it likes, and we tell you when to walk on it and when to drive on it. Rushing that is how a new concrete driveway earns its first crack. We pull the forms, clean up the edges, haul off the last of the debris, and walk the finished work with you before we call it done.
No. Pooler sits inside the range we cover out of Savannah, and a driveway or patio there gets bid the same way it would anywhere else we work. What moves a number is the slab itself: square footage, thickness, how much tear-out comes first, whether we are setting rebar or wire mesh, and how far the truck can back toward the pour. Geography is not on that list.
We read the ground on site rather than by address, because two lots on the same street can behave differently once we open them up. Subgrade gets checked and compacted before any forms go in. If we find soft spots, we dig them out and bring in material that will hold. That step decides whether a slab stays flat, so we do not shorten it.
Sometimes closely, sometimes not. Existing concrete has weathered, and a new pour cures out lighter before it settles toward its final tone over the following months. With stamped or colored work we can chase the pattern and get near the color. Honest answer: a new section beside an old one usually reads as newer. Where matching matters, we suggest a clean break at a control joint.
It depends on what is already on the calendar and what the weather is doing, since we will not pour into a bad forecast. Small flatwork, a sidewalk section or a patio slab, moves through faster than a full driveway replacement. Call and tell us what you have, and we will walk through where it would land in the schedule. Estimates are free.
No hard minimum. We pour sidewalk sections, single-bay aprons, pads for a shed or a generator, and repairs to a corner that has broken up. Very small jobs sometimes make more sense grouped with other work on the property, and we will say so if that applies. Commercial concrete and larger driveways run the same process, only longer.